Northern New Mexico Loop (NNML)

June 2024

Ghost Ranch to Chama

Well not the Loop meticulously put together by Brett Tucker and Melissa Spencer, check out simblissity.net for their other routes too, like Lowest to Highest ( L2H), Mogollon Rim Trail and Grand Enchantment Trail (GET).

I got to Santa Fe after learning that the Indios Fire had shut down a portion of the CDT, collocated with the Northern New Mexico Loop (NNML) between Cuba and Ghost Ranch. If I started out of Santa Fe, I’d have to add the 31-mile reroute along 2 highways. I decided to start 155 miles in, at Ghost Ranch and found Kevin to shuttle me, stopping to pick up another couple going to Ghost Ranch along the way.

It was insanely hot at Ghost Ranch as I hiked uphill to the CDT. To get water for dry camping, I had to gently ask permission of the cows and calves crowded around the water tank. They gave me the look but let me fill my bottles and move along. You really need to be courteous and camp well away from their territory, scaring them away from their water could be a death sentence. I found a campsite uphill from the trail and as it got dark there was the usual single cow kind of yelling to find where the heck the herd was bedding down for the night.

A couple more nights on the CDT, but when the hail and lightening hit I camped early and inReach texted (Mitch) Tumbleweed Outfitters in Chama to pick me up from Hwy 64 the next afternoon. And it was cold in the morning, wore all my layers for hours. Got to Chama and it rained some more and all the next day. Yuck.

David Odell’s 1971 transcribed paper journal from the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) provides quite a contrast to my current experience. Rereading this Triple Crowner’s journal section for the New Mexico part of the CDT, as I hiked here, I was struck by how he had to navigate from maps to try to find routes that would have him hiking on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). The official CDT, 50 years later, now seems oftentimes to be a long way from the geographic continental divide.

His paper journal from 1971 (!!) has been transcribed by his wife to Postholer. As have his 1970’s Appalachian Trail (AT) and Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) paper journals. I was backpacking since childhood but never had an inkling that people were walking for months on end from Mexico to Canada. Reading his journals, I can’t help thinking about what I was doing as he was spending months on a trail. “Fascinating,” as Mr. Spock would say.

I bought a new fleece pullover made by Tumbleweed and mailed it home at the post office just across the street. And met Toe who knew some stories about Catwater from Puff Puff who hiked the AT with Toe!

Chama to Questa

Fun time: I took the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad to Osier Station and started hiking at 1:30 pm. Every other passenger got back on the train after a yummy lunch. I walked 5 miles to the CDT, then decisions to make. The NNML goes cross-country (x-c) a ways down the trail, or I can make my own route via the CDT, dirt roads or x-c. I camped at 5 pm with 5 miles left to where I really had to decide how to hike to Questa, after wandering in circles a bit, which is stupid. Part of the challenge is using Gaia GPS with downloaded maps because I’ve just been using the FarOut trail app for so long.

The next morning I walked 3.8 on the CDT to the Brazos overlook where the x-c began. I saw tons of elk! I sat and contemplated my options, searching FarOut maps and the Gaia maps. Nope, I decided to take the dirt road, Forest Route 87, that parallels the CDT to Lagunitas Campground. I’d connect in about 11.25 to the NNML. About half an hour into the road walk, “Bandit” on a bike comes my way and says “Old Timer” is right behind him. I saw him and yelled “OT!” Astonished, he hopped off his bike, we hugged and talked. OT was in the group I was hiking the CDT with in 2021 from Mexico to Grants, along with the Warrior Expedition guys. He asked me, as in 2021, if we could pray together. I look into his eyes, the kindest soul, this man. I told him how hiking with the veterans that year changed me. He unpinned a small cross decorated with the American flag colors and handed it to me. He had told bikepacking buddy Bandit he would run into somebody he knew on the trail. More hugs. He and Bandit rode on north, I hiked south.

And I continued, realizing I have made my own alternate to the NNML, quite happy with it too.

My campsite after 18.2 miles was cool and quiet, with mini worms dropping on my tent. No cows around, but I heard an annoyed elk walk by.

The next morning, it was a short walk along trail back to FR 87 which I opted to stay on till Hwy 128 and then to “unimproved road”. I didn’t want to spend time bushwhacking (x-c), especially up higher when the wind is already ferocious and it looks like rain. I did use my brain to walk way off the road to the Rio access to get 5 liters of water to get me through a long waterless stretch. Old barbed wire fence that I had to go under, the bottom wire was barbed so I have a couple more scars in development. The barbed wire they’ve got further south in New Mexico has the unbarbed bottom wire that’s much easier to snake under. It poured rain for about half of the day’s 19 miles, but the footing was easy.

Back to the NNML, I navigated x-c across miles of beautiful sage covered open country. The surface was sandy silt, no shade, slow. I rolled my ankle a bit, it’s fine. Really glad I know basic navigation and had hauled those 5 liters of water yesterday. I finally got to a stock tank about 4 pm? Cows were curled up like kittens, maybe 2 dozen. They freaked and ran for the hills. I grabbed 3 liters and left, treated it once I was out of sight, poor cows didn’t do the usual paparazzi thing, where they stop and stare at me like they’ve been waiting for hours for such a sight. I camped behind some sagebrush, they smell so good!

Whoa. The Rio Grande Gorge at Sheepherder’s Crossing, an historic trail used by sheep herders in the past. I tried to ford, pack unstrapped, but retreated when the water went to my pits. I walked upstream and fell in the river when I slipped on a mud slimed rock, my right hip will have a gigantic bruise, it hurts. I went a bit more upstream, keeping my waist belt cinched. I stepped in and floated, my pack floated too, it was just a short way to the opposite shore, so I went with it, holding my sticks in one hand and rolling to my side and back as I drifted downstream, kicking to the opposite shore. It worked, I’m clean. I only lost my sunglasses. The water was warm, my inReach and phone and most everything else in dry bags survived too. Thanks OT for the prayers.

I climbed up to a paved road with a picnic area, dripping wet, where a couple of tourists didn’t know what to make of me before driving on to their next adventure. About 30” later, walking dirt roads, a nice guy in a beat up pickup truck stopped to say he’d been looking for 6 cows with calves that they missed during the roundup. Had I seen them? I said I’d keep my eyes open but where in Questa should I report if I did see them? The family store. A few hours later, the same guy saw me crossing the paved highway at the light 1/2 mile down the 322 from the RV Park where I’d reserved a cabin for 2 nights. He pulled over just to chat—so nice! I told him I’d seen cow patties a couple days old, but no stray cows. It reminds me of that one feral cow drinking out of the lake as you climb out of the Gila River for the last time down south.

Lovely, quiet, comfy at the cabin for 2 nights. Got groceries, did laundry, logistics, the usual stuff.

Questa to Red River

I cut out all the extra miles as I had decided on my zero day. I thought maybe the trail alt in the Gaia maps or a forest service road would get me to Red River. I walked out of Questa (home of Taos Bakes!) on Cabestros, instead of the paved highway I came in on, ignoring the written information about loose dogs. From there I followed “the blue line” from the mapped route which was excellent Forest Service gravel. I got to the trail/water junction and grabbed 5 liters since I had absolutely no idea where or if the water would be. I’m climbing up the forested mountains, no more cow country. I checked out the trail—it was skinny with loose rocks and reputedly steep, so I turned back and continued on FS 497 which, yes, was uphill too for the next 7 hours. But well graded, I’m happy with my decision! Lots of OHVs or 4x4s, whatever they call them here, tourist fun. On the “back” of her “out-and-back” from Red River, a lady stopped to tell me, “You’re impressive”. Nice! I could have walked into Red River, but I’m saving $200 by camping on a bluff hidden from the road with a gorgeous view. I’m 2.8 miles away from my reservation at the Best Western (BW) tomorrow.

I laid around my tent the next morning, waiting for post office hours so I could get my next resupply box. I got there, but nobody was working. I asked 2 locals checking their post office boxes for their mail, they had no idea why nobody was working. I went back to the BW, googled, and found out it was a federal holiday, Juneteenth! Not a sign or banner or anything in this town. I’ll get my box in the morning, not a problem. Meanwhile Taos Outfitters had what I needed—replacement sunglasses for the ones the Rio Grande got, a Patagonia sun hoody and fuel. The bruise on my hip is massive and my gripping-my-way-out-of-the-river arm is still sore, 4 days later.

Red River to Taos to Santa Fe

And I needed to go back to Alaska in a few weeks so I planned and replanned and I still had a week I could hike but buses don’t go between the places I wanted them and everyplace doesn’t have shuttle drivers like the AT, etc. I got a ride to Taos where I got a bus to Santa Fe and a shuttle to the airport and I flew out, after touristing around a bit. I really want to come back and see more of northern New Mexico. Meanwhile Anchorage and Fairbanks and back to the Sierra. It’s so complicated not thru hiking. Thru hiking you tell everybody you’re busy and you follow a trail for months, point A to B. Not thru hiking makes everybody wonder Where in the World is Catwater.

Catching up the hiking blog

June 6, 2024 Catwater 2024 Catwater Hikes Catwater

From the AT finish in July 2023 to June 2024

Kid Catwater on a Sierra Club hike in CA

It’s weird being done with the PCT, CDT and AT. What next? A few years ago when I was back at Doc Campbell’s in New Mexico on another “warm up” section hike, a Grand Enchantment Trail (the GET) hiker was also there, hanging with the CDT hikers, before he resumed his east bound hike to Albuquerque. He laughed and said, “The GET is where Triple Crowners go to die.” Meaning, I think, that once you’ve achieved Triple Crown status, you don’t stop hiking, you just find other challenges.

Anyway, after finishing the AT in 2023, I went back to the Sierra and hiked with my buddies Sunset, Lonesome Duck and Disco. It was a big snow year so even in July, a lot remained. I know it was a challenge for the 2023 NOBO PCT hikers and we met some on the trail who had delayed their starts from Mexico so as to not have to deal with too much snow travel.

I always enjoy these guys (even if one of them has an alternate trail name bestowed by Puff Puff in 2019, “my favorite grumpy old guy), and we chose to do a stretch of the JMT out of Red’s Meadow up to Lake Virginia and then back out to Mammoth via Duck Pass. We took a peek from the JMT down, down, down to Tully Hole and said, “nope.” The Tully Troopers we’re calling ourselves. There were surprisingly few JMT hikers so we had no problems finding campsites for our 4 tents.

My next trek was scheduled around the Foo Fighters tickets I bought for a concert in Stateline, Nevada. The Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) is about 175 miles around the lake, only about 50 miles of which don’t allow bicycles. Those 50 miles are collocated with the PCT. And there were a few rogue riders who ignored the trail etiquette of yielding to hikers. You can guess my reaction. And still, I loved this trail, non-stop beauty and Lake Tahoe views. Frequent access to resupply, so my pack wasn’t too heavy. And I was as acclimated because of the Tully Troopers hike at altitude. Lots of people, but I could live here anyway…

ALDHA-West Triple Crown of Hiking ceremony!!! Near Mount Hood, Oregon, September 2023.

2023-2024 Snowboard interlude

USASA Big Alaska Hilltop Ski Area Rail Jam

Yukon, Alberta and Alaska Rail Jam judges at Arctic Winter Games at Skeetawk: l to r Rob, Harmony, Kris, Darryl

Norm from Yukon troubleshooting AWG Snowboard Officials transportation

My Copper Mountain, CO office for a couple weeks

Olympic gold medalists forerunning the Boardercross course at USASA Nationals at Copper Mountaib. Thanks Nick and Lindsey!

What Alaska girls do at Nationals when they’re not on their snowboards

Ask USASA ED Mike Mallon about bambams in USASA goodie bags 😹

Later in April, back to the CDT in New Mexico to get in hiking shape for the Grand Canyon.

Knight Shift from the PCT 2015, totally unexpected encounter on Mangas Mountain, New Mexico. Highlight of the hike!

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon hikers: Alaskans, relocated Alaskans and friends of Alaskans

We gathered at lodging on the South Rim the day before dayhiking rim to rim. The plan was 8 miles down the South Kaibab Trail, then 14 up the North Kaibab. It was a beautiful day, incredible scenery every minute of the long day, and really hard work. Some in our group finished in about 11 hours, others in more than 15 hours. I was around 12 1/2 with plenty of microbreaks. Water wasn’t an issue, there are potable water sources, which is good but kinda freaky, and natural sources which I’m used to.

Charles was waiting for a van load of hikers to gather at the trailhead and drive us the 2 miles to our lodging on the North Rim, thanks again, Charles! I checked into my cozy cabin and got a call from friend Steve McKeever from the cafeteria. “Better get over here, they’re running out of food!” I managed to make it in time to eat, whew.

We all took a zero the next day but gathered at the General Store for snacks and the group photo. My legs were killing me, so I decided not to hike back the following day, reasoning when I did the Arizona Trail SOBO in the Fall, I’d get to anyway. Yeah right, what a wimp. Instead I got a 5 hour car ride with Merrideane and Leslie back to the South Rim. Great conversation and views, no regrets!

Next? After some time off I will go back to New Mexico for the 500 mile Northern New Mexico Loop which starts and ends in Santa Fe and includes about 150 Continental Divide Trail (CDT) miles that I’ve hiked previously.

AT The End: Franklin, NC to Springer, GA

July 8, 2023July 13, 2023 Catwater 2023 Catwater Hikes Catwater

7/7-12/23 87 miles

Flip pages to the end of the mystery book— I did it! I finished the Appalachian Trail at Springer Mountain on July 12, 2023.

I’ve been ridiculously anxious the last couple hundred miles about something happening that would make me get off trail. Maybe it’s weird but I just wanted to complete this trail. This time it hasn’t been about the journey, it’s been about the achievement. For myself. I did it.

The weather north on the AT has been really bad, the flooding in Vermont has washed out at least one bridge, and caused hikers to slog through “Vermud” where they could. Hikers have been asked to get off the trail for their own safety. I was so lucky last year to have way better conditions, just a couple of days where I was wet, cold and miserable.

Meanwhile the record snowfall in the Sierra has been a massive challenge for people trying to thru-hike the PCT.

My decision to walk these last 470 miles from Damascus to Springer in June and July means I’ve been in the lush rainforest, the green tunnel with very few other hikers. If I’d continued last October I would have had better views since the trees and bushes are deciduous and drop their leaves in the Fall. Doh. But I wanted to finish the AT in time to apply to get the Triple Crown of Hiking at the Fall Gathering of the American Long-Distance Hiking Association-West (ALDHA-West) this September. I did it.

I’ve barely had to pitch my tent the last few weeks. I’ve taken advantage of the unique situation along the AT. There are numerous shuttle operations that will pick me up, drop me off and pick me up again and bring me back to a motel or hostel for a dry comfortable place to sleep. It takes quite a bit of cash but I’m no purist, as anybody who’s hiked with me knows. I connect my footsteps so I’ve not missed a mile. Platinum blazing has kept me injury free and given me the social connections that keep my anxiety at bay.

The Hidden Pond Hostel was the last place I stayed. I hiked off trail about 0.5 miles and Potholder picked me up for the short ride. Along with M&M and Pootz, he’s keeping the place open for hikers. Many hostels are closed now since the NOBOs are long gone. Two women I’d met briefly a day or two previously, Strider and Feral, were staying there on their section hike from Hiawassee to Amicalola State Park just past the Springer terminus. Sitting in the common area, I expressed my dream that I wouldn’t have to pitch my tent again, that there was a slackpack option to get me 15 miles the next day, leaving just 9 for my last day. M&M and Pootz (2007 AT hikers) calmly started talking about it. And made it happen, yay!

GA, the 14th of the 14 states the AT travels through

Rock wall with culvert holding up the trail

M&M, Pootz,Feral, Strider, Catwater celebrating at the top of Springer

P.S. I wrote a little essay in 2019 after I finished the CDT about hiking the AT in 2020. Which I didn’t do that year because of the pandemic. It follows this post, unedited.

CDT 2023 Reserve to Pie Town

May 3, 2023May 11, 2023 Catwater 2023 Catwater Hikes Catwater, CDT

At the Pie-O-Neer in Pie Town, upper right by the fireplace around the table clockwise: Container, Eager Beaver, Brittany, ?, Falcon, El Chapo, ?

I forgot to talk about the elevation in New Mexico. When I flew into Silver City , I was at 6000’. The day I hiked out towards Gila Hot Springs I topped out at 7200’. This last stretch I slept in Reserve at 5800’ after climbing to 9000’ the day before. The shuttle from Reserve dropped me at the trailhead at 7300’ and that day I climbed over Mangas Mountain at 9600’ before pitching my tent on the downside at 8300’. It doesn’t look like I’m at elevation, it looks like flat to hilly desert.

Hiking the Appalachian Trail north last year, I went up and down stunning mountain ranges, some of the oldest mountains I’ve ever been in, but their elevation is comparatively low. The Whites in New Hampshire have a calling to peak baggers—summit all 48 4000footers (4000’). That’s in contrast to Colorado’s challenge—bag all 58 14ers (14,000’). And I’ve spent quite a bit of time in California’s Sierra, including hiking Mt Whitney a few times, the highest peak in the Lower 48 at 14,505’.

5/1/23 zero

I’m still exhausted, even after a night in a quiet, comfy room—dammit!

Twigs and Foghorn took a zero yesterday and were going to hike out today but Twigs has a swollen, sore Achilles so she and Foghorn are going to rest up another day—the only hikers here until suddenly in the afternoon, they were swarming like flies. Or, you know, maybe flies were swarming stinky hiker trash.

Thor is camping behind the laundry room, then Auzzie and pup Waydoe (yes!). Falcon and his just trail named companion, Roadside Poopah (or just Roadside because the diarrhea next to the trail doesn’t need to be thought about every time you hear his name). Roadside has 2 sore Achilles and is going to get a ride ahead to Toaster House in Pie Town. Falcon will take a zero in Reserve.

We all went to the only place open for food, Bill’s Bar. I shot pool for the first time since Crystal Palace and Saloon in Juneau in the 70’s I think. I even made a few shots—me and Falcon vs Twigs and Foghorn. More hikers rolled in for food and beer—Tucker and Ian, Dr Doolittle and Sherpa (met at Doc’s). Fun!

5/2/23 16.3 miles

So I got the shuttle (thanks again Darryl!), hiked a shortish day and am now drinking the Sante Fe 7K IPA I carried out of Reserve. I’m purposely doing 2 nights so I can hike into Toaster House on morning 3 in the hopes that hikers have cleared out and I can get a bunk inside. I’ve done it before and the plan has worked. The latest info is that new caretaker Dana is cleaning things up, and sticking to quiet hour and good behavior rules. If it’s overrun like in 2021, I can grab my resupply box and hitch to Quemado where there is a motel. Why do I stress about this?

5/3/23 15.4 miles

An uneventful day of gravel road walking. I stopped at Davila Ranch at about noon and owner John was there. I met him way back when and I’d heard he’d had some health issues since. But he looked good and it was fun talking to him. Since I told him I’d been there before, he asked if I knew DogMa. Of course! She’d been at Davila just a week or so before, for the second time (the 1st was in 2019 when she and I met on the porch of Toaster House with her dog with the sprained tail from swimming the Gila River). John said he didn’t recognize DogMa but described her, not present this year, dog to perfection. Kinda like me, I’ll get the dog’s name and forget the hiker’s name. John dug a 500’ well so he could provide this hiker oasis. There’s a covered area with a refrigerator stocked with eggs and potatoes, 2 washers and dryers, a kitchen area, a wash station, flush toilet and shower complete with towels and loaner clothes. All for donation. What kindness!

I hung out an hour and a half, first with Forest Jill, and older hiker couple Home and Eric, and then with Twigs and Foghorn. I carried enough water to camp and went another 6 miles, ducking under a barbed wire fence and stealth camping in wind and clouds, hidden from the road, leaving no trace and perfectly comfortable.

5/4/23 8 miles

Made it to Toaster House by 10 am. Got my bunk on the ledge upstairs. No problems. Not wall to wall mattresses like in 2021, whew. The washer works again in the single bathroom with shower. Towels and sheets are clean. I did another load and hung them to dry outside in the wind—bone dry towels within an hour. Dana, the caretaker, is trying, stressing to make it a great hiker stop again, and we got along great. She’s only been here a week and is trying to get things straightened up as the hiker bubble keeps rolling in. Most want to zero, staying is by donation. Twigs and Foghorn went to eat at the cafe with me and then moved on, either hiking a ways or hitching to Grants I think. I’ll miss them.

5/5/23 zero

Hikers in the piano room at the Pie-O-Neer. Playing is Lamb, behind Container and El Chapo

Falcon arrived. There are lots of Germans here too. El Chapo and wife Brittany, physios from Toronto, awesome people! More food at the Pie-O-Neer with hikers including Lamb (Liam sounds like Lamb with his Aussie accent), Canister (German from Hamburg), sweet Eager Beaver, Falcon, El Chapo and Brittany. And more!

Somehow, the single bedroom I stayed in years ago was vacated by an old French guy and I got it. I saw it was empty and asked Dana if she was saving it for someone. She said I could have it because she knew I wouldn’t mess with the stuff stored there (paper towels, cleaning products, nothing a hiker would take, I was kinda confused). Bliss! Privacy (with my earplugs in). I found out AFTER, the next day when I was on trail and talked with Gonzo, that she’d told others to get out of the room. I feel kind of bad because as I was hiking out, an innocent hiker guy asked if I had a bunk and I told him about the single room. I wonder if Dana kicked him out?

Gonzo and Catwater hiking out from Toaster House

AT Pearisburg to Damascus, VA

September 30, 2022October 14, 2022 Catwater AT 2022 Catwater

9/17-29 166.4 miles

Sometime as I was walking around the Angel’s Rest hostel yard petting dogs, long Arctic Blonde hair clean and not in braids, a camper cheerfully greeted me with “Hey, Groovy!” which cracked me up. Guess I do present as a hippie, kids.

Five of us threw in money to have our backpacks driven to the next hostel and slacked there—Coach (70 and the fastest), Orchid, Duckie, Crossword and me. Woods Hole Hostel is about a half mile down a good gravel road with the original structure built in the 1880’s. The granddaughter of the original hostel owner now runs it with fresh food out of the garden, sweet dogs, a bunkhouse, shower house and main house and kitchen. Wonderful food too.

Even better, the day after that, Woods Hole delivered our packs to Weary Feet hostel 15.6 miles south. Woo!

I spent 3 nights at the Weary Feet run by Julie and ably assisted by Robert. A wonderful old house with high ceilings and creaky wood floors. Julie made dinner and breakfast for how ever many hikers there were, which ranged from 2 to 8 during my stay. I slackpacked 2 days and headed out for good after my third night.

The first day slack, Crossword decided to hike out for real so I saw him as we were hiking opposite directions. Early Bird had asked me to check on him since he wasn’t feeling well. He texted later that he camped at the first shelter and then his wife came the next morning and took him home. Although he tested negative for Covid several times, he was at home for about a week before feeling well enough to get back on trail.

I learned a lot from Robert about farming and local fauna and flora. He spent his days cutting and bailing hay and taught me about dry hay, wet hay (rolls have to be less than 30% wet with no holes allowed in the white plastic covering or mold will get in), what horses could eat (dry hay in “square” bales) and what cows could eat (wet or dry hay in round bales). There’s 3 kinds of bear hunting dogs in the area: strike, jump and pack dogs, each with a special role. And other interesting, local knowledge.

I finally hiked out for good with less than 18 miles to another hostel: Burke’s Garden hostel where I was the only guest and watched cows and horses in the surrounding fields from my clean but cold indoor haven. I got a text from Tyvek Shaman, checking in, he’s 300 miles south of me, heading for the finish, so cool. When I got dropped back at the trail in the morning, the cold wind barreling up the ridge kept me cold till 2 pm. I camped by a stream by myself out of the wind and not too cold. I did say “Morning” to a hiker who came by early in the dark with a head lamp, no idea which direction he was headed though.

It was slightly less cold than yesterday, I climbed out of the creek drainage protected from the wind but not the cloud and rhododendron cover. The trail crossed through open pastures, which I love. The feeling of space and sky and territorial views makes me happy.

I got to the highway at Rural Retreat in the early afternoon and walked up the road to the Long Neck Lair Alpaca Farm and Hiker Hostel. My private room was a little odd, just a wood barn door separating it from the house—I could hear the TV and conversations next door like I was in the same room, sigh. I could have gone to the nearby motel though but the owners here are super kind. The bunkhouse wasn’t an option, even if I wanted, as poor Duckie is there, sick with fever and other Covid symptoms, taking a zero with Orchid and Coach.

Nonetheless, the next morning Orchid, Duckie and I slackpacked, asking for the shuttle to take us out the trail a little late, 11:30 am, to make sure Duckie was up for it. They got ahead of me and when I walked back into town I ate at the Mexican restaurant before heading back to the hostel, yum! Coach had opted to hike out SOBO in the morning with his pack.

The next day’s plan was to catch a ride by 7. When Duckie and Orchid didn’t show up, I figured one or both wasn’t feeling well. Later in the day I learned Duckie had tested positive so they were going to isolate a bit longer. I was at the trailhead waiting for Crossword and let Coach (he camped at the shelter just off the road to wait for Duckie and Orchid) know about Duckie. He got out his home test kit and got a negative result.

Crossword is getting back on trail after 3 negative tests. His wife, Diana, drove him back from Maryland so I finally got to meet her before she headed back. She thanked me for watching out for him. Yup, it takes a village to raise an old guy on the trail—his wife, Diana, 2 real sisters, Jean and Patty, and me, the sister-by-another-mother.

It was a cold 4 days and 3 nights into Damascus. The first night, Crossword, Decadent and I camped next to a tiny trickle out of the wind. Decadent is tired and cold but younger and doing bigger miles, although admittedly he needs to switch to his cold weather gear at Damascus.

We saw a “blue blaze” or short cut on the Far Out App once you hiked up to the Grayson Highlands. It cut 6 miles so we took it and made it to the Hurricane Mountain shelter. I pitched my tent nearby, trying to find a break from the wind. Horse With No Name was nearby while others stayed in the shelter—Living Proof, Coach, Crossword and Decadent. It was the coldest it’s been that night, near freezing. Although it’s comfortable and fairly well insulated, my Big Agnes sleeping pad let some ground cold in. Too bad my Thermarest NeoAir XTherm gave up in Rangeley, ME. I’d tried to talk a couple of backpackers into loaning me their dog, Rosie, for the night, but no luck. Go figure!

First thing I saw hiking out the next morning was a feral pony, then more ponies, yay! And the trail went through a cow pasture, so I got to see calves too.

The white blazed AT goes through this cow pasture

Crossword and I decided to camp at a junction of the AT and the Virginia Creeper Trail. The Creeper is a rail-to-trail quite popular with cyclists. We walked it into Damascus the next morning where it rejoined the AT. It was flat, wide, and graveled, so finally some quick hiking for me.

Hurricane Ian warnings rattled all of us hikers a bit. The nights have been nearly freezing anyway and rain and wind are predicted as the hurricane moves up through South Carolina, then North Carolina and possibly west into the part of Virginia I’m in. I had hoped to be indoors in Damascus before it hits, if it does. And I made it too.

I’ve got other things I want to do—a volunteer week in Yosemite NP with people I haven’t seen in awhile in my favorite park. A trip to NYC for theatre and the marathon, I ran the 50th in November 2021. I’d hoped to thru the AT but it’s taken longer than I hoped. And I learned on the CDT in 2017 that it’s wise to have some balance and take breaks from the trail for the people you care about.

Broken Fiddle Hostel was a calm, clean place to stay. Once I confirmed that I could get a shuttle to the Asheville airport and that I could change my flight to an earlier date, I relaxed, decision made. I will return for the final 470.7 miles from Damascus, VA to Springer Mountain, Georgia. When? To Be Determined (TBD). So long for now, Appalachian Trail, it’s been a trip.

PNT Bonner’s Ferry to Metaline Falls

July 23, 2021July 25, 2021 Catwater On the Trail 2021 Catwater, PNT

7/15-7/21

7/15 16.9 miles

As usual, 6 days of food is heavy, especially on the sun exposed switchbacks after the not unpleasant road walk along highway then through the flat farm valley gravel roads. A little girl came running out to the edge of her driveway, barefooted, to tell about her sore toe. She was maybe 5, wearing bright girl colors but told me her favorite color was black, that made me laugh. Her final comment was that her family was selling puppies—good thing I didn’t see them because a puppy would really weigh down my pack.

We got water at a spring on the uphill, needed enough for camping and quite a ways tomorrow. Our campsite was marginal but at least it was flattish and all the standing dead trees were cleared. Later, Brennan walked in and camped too, I had no idea he had zeroed in Bonner’s too, so that was nice. Plus, in the morning he makes real coffee, how cool is that? I’m pretty sick of instant Starbucks Via doctored with protein powder and Instamix. Yuck.

7/16 12 miles

Positioning for the dreaded bushwhack tomorrow. It was a beautiful ridge walk most of the day, although it was quite the long haul to water. I was ecstatic to find pools of water after 9 miles this morning. There’s a trailhead that gives access to Pyramid Lake, then Upper and Lower Ball Lakes which all have campsites. Quite a few locals are camped nearby. Poppy was ahead and met a group of women on a girlfriends’ weekend. “We all hunt and fish,” said the friendly one. All 6 had sidearms “for people, not bears.” Guns don’t bother me, but stupid attitudes do so I did my best not to show my contempt for these chicken shits. At least their dogs will be an early warning system for bear when they enter the girlfriends’ messy camp.

7/17 8 miles or longer

Brennan caught up to us in the morning so we all did the hellish bushwhack together. Turns out one of those women pulled her gun when he turned up at the lake, a totally not scary, harmless guy. I wish I could go all Mama Bear on them, I’m outraged. But I’m not hiking back!

Anyway after about 8 hours, we emerged on an actual trail, bleeding from scratches and punctures. I rolled my ankle, which I’ve done before too many times to count. It hurts for a few minutes, will swell and stabilize, and I’ll continue hiking. So it goes.

We three camped soon after, right near another trailhead that many families were using to hike a short ways to a waterfall.

All of a sudden a helicopter was circling overhead, obviously Search and Rescue (SAR). We all checked to make sure we hadn’t set off our inReach SOS by accident. Then there was another helo with a guy hanging outside on the skids outside looking. Pretty soon a volunteer SAR crew came down the trail from the parking lot with a stretcher. A minute later they came back. I went to talk to them.

After mobilizing 2 helicopters and 2 ambulance crews, it turned out the injured person (head injury in the Falls) was being carried out to the road by a parent.

The Bonner’s Ferry SAR woman told me they’d successfully lifted a PNT hiker with a broken leg the day before. We wondered who it was, just a day ahead of us.

7/18 12.7 miles for me, 20 for Poppy, LOL!

I started first and immediately made a mistake looking for the trail along the river. I backtracked and Poppy was gone, ahead of me. A few miles later on the road walk, I made another mistake. I missed a switchback 1.5 miles behind me. I checked my maps and stayed on the perfectly excellent gravel road that led downhill mostly to the Priest Lakes and the campsite location we’d talked about. I got there by noon and relaxed at a picnic table, watching the boaters and sunbathers. I went for a swim and rinsed out my clothes. Poppy arrived later and also swam after her much longer, arduous day and we settled in near the privies for a quiet night.

7/19 22 miles

A lovely day! Walked from Upper Priest Lake into old growth cedar forest then onto gravel road.

I was dreading coming off the road and onto trail and the heat and smoke made me worry about having to evacuate possibly. Our Guthook app had recent comments about a very long road walk alternate that would put us into Metalline Falls on schedule, rather than having to spend an unplanned extra night on trail. I got ahold of Poppy, ahead, on the inReach, and we decided to do the road walk.

My day was made better when a Sheriff’s K-9 unit came screeching to a halt in front of me. Deputy Darren leaped out of the driver’s seat, grabbed a cooler snd offered me fresh cherries! And I got to pet K-9 Leo! We had a great conversation and I walked on. I knew Brennan was behind and hoped he got the same experience, but Poppy missed it, bummer.

We all 3 wound up camping on the road just downhill from the Pass

K-9 Unit Darren and Leo with trail magic!

7/20 18 miles

Pretty nice gravel road walk this morning turned into a quite painful paved downhill in the heat into Metalline Falls. Like my feet are killing me as I eat a fantastic meal at the Farmhouse Cafe with a tall glass of huckleberry lemonade. Life is great! Met Tix and Nick. The discussion was about Washington DNR closing all recreation on their lands to the west of us and east of North Cascades in 2 days due to worsening fires and heat.

Slide Rule rolled into town in our ‘97 4WD Ford Sportsmobile and took Poppy and I to a motel.

7/21 zero

We loaded the van with Ken, Honey Sticks, Best Western, Poppy, Beans (née Brennan) and drove to Spokane. We’re going to bounce a little ahead of what we’d planned, due to the threatening conditions. Brainstorming logistics, resupply, and routes for a few days. I think we’re going to get a ride to Chelan, take the ferry to Stehekin, walk up the PCT to Highway 20, and walk up that and rejoin the PNT on the west facing side of the North Cascades. Should be cooler and less smoky. I hope. Got to figure out resupply and send some boxes.

Back to the CDT

May 10, 2018May 13, 2018 Catwater CDT 2018 Catwater, CDT, Continental Divide Trail

Arctic Winter Games snowboarding in Fort Smith, NWT, Canada

Part of the amazing crew at USASA Nationals at Copper Mountain, CO

I had a rather wonderful off-season from hiking but I still can’t wait to get back on trail. My winter was spent traveling a lot–Hawaii a couple of times, Florida for my first 2 visits ever, the Winter Olympics to watch my Alaska snowboarders Ryan Stassel and Rosie Mancari, Fort Smith, NWT, Canada for Arctic Winter Games, Copper Mountain, CO for USASA Nationals and California to see my step-mom and to run the Big Sur 11-miler with friends from Yosemite, Noreen and Vicky.

Somehow, during the times I was at home, I managed to break my little orange Manx cat. I had the brilliant idea for googling “running mice” while he was sitting next to my laptop. Now he is fixated on the computer and if I don’t remember to close the cover, I’ll find him walking on the keyboard trying to find the running mice video in history. I can return home after a week away and Shreddie will greet me and then lead me to the laptop and start purring and rubbing his chin on it, gazing expectantly at the screen. I think we need to get him his own desktop system and no keyboard and run the video on a loop. The damage has been done and his tiny cat brain is never going to recover. Maybe when I’m on the trail, he’ll get into a recovery program. He’s on the wait list.

My plan to complete the CDT this season includes “re-hiking” an interesting section of New Mexico to toughen up my feet and get in trail shape for the San Juans in southern Colorado, Ghost Ranch to Monarch Pass, the approximately 300 mile section I skipped last year to fly home to AK to host visitors. Then Burning Calves is flying in from Germany to hike the Colorado Trail and I’m going to meet her for the first 100 or so non-CDT miles out of Denver that will connect to the CDT near Frisco and Breckenridge. From there I’ll transit north of Dubois, WY where I left the trail and continue towards Canada. Montana got well above average snow this winter so it might make sense to head north out of Wyoming the second week of July or maybe I’ll head south from Canada back to Dubois. Sometime in July, my PCT 2015 friend Poppy will join me from Spokane! Plus, I am going to hike the PCT south out of Tuolumne Meadows in September after another volunteer work week in Yosemite. All plans are subject to change of course. It’s a lot more complicated planning a non-thru hike and figuring out transportation logistics rather than just walking north.

I’ve never done this before so bear with me. I am fundraising for Achilles International, an amazing organization I saw in action last November when I ran the NYC Marathon. It’s all about helping adaptive athletes, a group of people who have inspired me for many years, beginning with a snowboarder named Jesse ripping up the Boardercross course at USASA Nationals without legs.

https://www.crowdrise.com/o/en/campaign/achilles-international-nyc-2018/alisonsterley

Steamboat, CO to Rawlins, WY

July 27, 2017 Catwater CDT 2017 Catwater, CDT, CDT 2017, Continental Divide Trail

Can it only be a week since I got a ride out of Steamboat Springs back to the trail? Feel like I’ve lived a lifetime and walked across a continent.

7/20 I caught the free bus to the post office to mail a box, then paid a taxi to take me back to the trail. I hate hitching. The trail was kind of boring, green tunnel, but mostly level and easy. I met 3 members of the Mighty, Mighty Trail Crew. The work was going well since they get to use chainsaws on the blowdown, not handsaws. Thanks Mighty, Mighty Trail Crew! I camped a bit past my target stream just as the latest thunderstorm hit with rain and hail.

7/21 As I write this in my tent, I am miserable, worried, cold and wet. Again I had to choose, camp at 2:30 or go up into the alpine and over and down back into treeline. Although the sky had been rumbling in the distance, it looked OK. Then on the last pitch, painful hail, huge, furious pellets and nowhere for me to shelter. I pulled on my rain pants over already cold, wet legs. The jacket I already had on against the wind. I remembered Puff Puff and I getting frozen from the hail storm out of Chester, CA last year. We vowed to put our layers on the next time, just as soon as it started, no waiting. I continued up the flattish, exposed ridge, it wasn’t far, then ran as carefully as I could across the ridge and down the other side, I could see it was a long way to trees. The intense lightning and hail scared me, I ran, crouched as if it would help, breathing fast, not panicked, but chilled and afraid I’d slip on the accumulating hail, be crippled by injury and die of hypothermia. The storm has been on top of me for 3 hours now with ceaseless rain and no pause between the lightning flash and the boom of thunder. I shouldn’t still be cold in my down bag but all is damp. I’ve eaten a stale Snickers and had a hot whey drink. That helps. The Ravens said they are leaving Steamboat at noon today so they are maybe 30 miles behind, low and safe I hope. This storm hit at 3:00, too early.

At 6:30 I was warm enough to sit up in my sleeping bag although the storm continued till 8:30. I was so alone that I was reminded of the goodbye notes stranded mountaineers write to their loved ones. I think I get it. You just want to make sure the people you love know that you love them. It’s irrational I guess but that’s another unique gift we get for being human beings.

7/22. What a different day. I woke to sunrise glowing on my tent walls and the air perfectly clear. I unclipped the storm flaps and tossed my jacket, rain pants, socks, and ditty bags outside to dry while I made my usual coffee and granola. I headed down the trail with a smile on my face even though my shoes were still soaking wet and reeking from the day before and I wore a jacket. As I entered a big meadow, 2 mama elk and their babies looked up and trotted off. Then a huge bull elk and another 15-20 animals followed them. Glorious! I laughed out loud. After hours of walking downhill, I met 2 guys in camo and daypacks. I teased them, “It’s not hunting season yet, is it?” They were, in fact, training for hunting season, by walking up this incredibly steep trail. Nice! Of course I had to mention where I was from and the hunters in my family. They asked if I’d seen any elk. “Yup, 2 1/2 hours ago.” “Yup, with a huge bull.”

I came to a trailhead joining a dirt road walk. A car stopped (it rarely happens) and the young couple asked if I wanted a ride. Its kind of a delicate situation, you don’t want to discourage kindness to the next hiker, who may want a ride. “Where to?” I grinned. Maybe they’re going to Jackson Hole or someplace else way more interesting than this dirt road. “Oh, a mile or two down the road.” “Sweet, thanks for the offer, I’m doing OK though.”

The route turned me into a short stretch of blowdown bedecked trail, 200 trees in about a mile. The things you count to have something to think about. To a road. To a campground with a dumpster (the joy of offloading garbage is insane) and an outhouse (even more joy ridding myself of “pack-it-out” TP). To a trail. To a road. To an ATV road.

7/23 Stinking coyotes woke me way too early, before 5 am. They always sound so cheerful, I fell back asleep and woke late but I still managed over 22 miles. That’s good, for me. I listened most of the day to Timothy Egan’s fascinating book about Irish history and Irish immigrants from before the Civil War, The Immortal Irishman. The trail sucks. ATV PUDs and water was an issue. But there was a nicely graded short cut dirt road for awhile. Then back to crappy trail. I made it to a beautiful water source, Dale Creek, and a lovely little established tent site was a surprise bonus. It was just far enough away from the burbling creek sounds that I wouldn’t hear voices in the harmonics.

The Wall (of blowdown) between Colorado and Wyoming

Colorado behind, Wyoming ahead. Life is good.

7/24 Stupid, annoying, soggy trail, where there is a trail. It was only about 11 miles to the highway and my next resupply down the hill in Encampment/Riverside. 2 women, looked older than me, gave me a ride. They had “run away from home” they giggled, and were camping for a few days. My kind of women! I got to Lazy Acres where there is a choice of camping, RVing, or a motel. No matter what you choose, you can do laundry and take a shower. My wet shoes, socks and feet are horrendous. I really, really hate being stinky, what am I doing hiking for days in the same clothes then? Woohoo, Dassie, AJ and Burning Calves! They were heading out, but we got lunch and beer together. It was BC’s birthday! After, they hitched out and I got a perfectly comfy, clean, quiet, cheap motel room. I studied the maps and info and Yogi’s pages and realized I could shave at least a day and 20 miles by taking a road walk alternate. Totally cheered me up, I only needed 3 days of food max. Riverside has a couple of tiny stores, so my food purchases consisted of cheddar cheese, tortillas, candy bars, and individually wrapped danish. But it’s now just about 60 miles to Rawlins and more than half will be on beautiful, blessed, quick walking roads! Happy hiker! Even though the weather forecast was for 2 days of rain, I was OK because there would be no big exposed climbs in the next stretch.

7/25 I was extremely lucky to get an early ride to the trail from a nice local who decided that he could put off pouring concrete in the rain to give a hiker a ride back up to Battle Pass. I barely stuck out my thumb, he was the first truck. He had been in the Seabees at Adak, AK in 1979. Wow, I told him about my friend Cody Carpenter who has recently gone way out there to hunt caribou and stay in the old officers quarters.

It rained and drizzled all day, not cold, not windy. Actually it was quite pleasant hiking temperatures. Mostly roads today including another alternate, slightly longer than the official route, but I know now that better tread makes for faster progress. Lessons learned in New Mexico. And when I rejoined the trail, it was in terrible shape as usual. Makes me wonder if I could have found more alternatives. I had to go over, under, around and through more messy, boggy, nearly impenetrable blowdown. I carried extra water weight since the maps and notes warned about undrinkable, alkaline water on the road alternate to Rawlins. I found a dry, open campsite with crazy squirrels and some new bird calls. Cranes maybe? It rained some more but I was at such low elevation that cold was not an issue. It was a happy place.

7/26 Picked up plenty more water but my pack is light because I don’t need to carry much food. Not a bad walk in the cool cloud cover. Saw several cyclists. The road rolls a bit, goes from dirt to paved and has very little traffic. I saw tons of pronghorn antelope in the sagebrush. New animal to me, beautiful, smart and skittish. They bound away in dun colored herds with what looks like gigantic, fluffy white bunnies clinging to their bums. Since Battle Pass, Wyoming has been what I hoped for, namely not Colorado. Finally the skunk bush stink is gone, replaced with the divine (truly, ask the First People of this area) scent of sagebrush. The trail and alternate join up and cross I-80 and railroad tracks, then go through Rawlins. I got my resupply box with new shoes and then holed up in a motel. Tomorrow I will tour the old Wyoming prison and buy groceries.

Grand Lake to Highway 40

July 19, 2017 Catwater CDT 2017 Catwater, CDT, CDT 2017, Continental Divide Trail

7/13 It’s a lovely place, the Shadowcliff, and not expensive, but the hostel was full so I took a room in the main lodge and the noise was challenging, so I moved to the very quiet Bighorn for a second night. Did all the chores: laundry, fuel, groceries. And ate an early dinner for the second night at the Stagecoach happy hour. Cheap, delicious and a welcoming place. I got a text from Dassie. The next morning we met for breakfast (“We thought the Fat Cat Cafe would be appropriate,” joked Dassie) and the big surprise wasn’t AJ (Mudslide) but Burning Calves back on the CDT from the AT! It was great to see friends, the CDT has been lonesome. I told them to give me a head start and I’d see them on the trail. They slackpacked the RMNP loop today.

7/14 I took the RMNP shortcut to save miles and because you need a permit and a bear canister to camp in “Rocky” as the cheerful trail crew called it. It was an uneventful but beautiful day filled with day hikers. Best question of the day was “Have you seen anything?” I’ve seen fire and I’ve seen rain… “Anything?” “Animals!” I camped below Bowen Pass near water. Today I finally finished listening to the 10th anniversary edition of American Gods. There was an Epilogue, then a Post Script, then an Appendix.

7/15 I walked up the valley to Bowen Pass and saw a bull moose curled under a tree like a cow, then just past him, 3 more moose, the mythical herd. Our moose don’t herd up like this. Then a minute later, a hare came bounding up to me. That’s a new one. Somebody been feeding this guy? I thought I’d have to settle for the usual fleeing butt.

The pass wasn’t so bad, and the down went quite a ways, full of blowdown to a “road,” a skinny, slippery canyon full of 4-wheelers, Mr and Mrs plus the kids. The road transitioned to trail, ominously marked with tire treads. A few minutes later the dirt bikes were barreling downhill at me on the single track as I continued a 3-hour uphill trudge. They were polite and legal, and there was no blowdown in this section, just noise, fumes and dust. I turned off onto a no-motorized trail that crossed a paved highway and continued up. I found a sheltered tent site and called it a day before the cloud burst. I had been packing 3 liters of water since there were 9 more dry miles in the morning.

7/16 This morning was hard but gorgeous. A goat! Mama grouse and her two chicks, all equally stupid. I could be dining on fresh grouse daily if I would just take advantage and whack one with my hiking stick. There were a couple long waterless stretches. People in cars on the dirt roads are a little weird. I walked onto an isolated dirt road junction and a lone old guy in a car drove slowly into and out of view with just a little wave, didn’t even roll down his window to check if I was OK.

7/17 Up and over this morning to a series of good dirt roads. Fat Albert overtook me, super friendly and helpful.

As I walked down the road, I chatted with a 4-wheeler couple who later in the day on their return trip told me my friends behind were trying to catch up. Yay! Then a retired couple invited me into their RV and a cold drink. Nice! I made over 25 miles today, although I am now stealth camped behind some bushes on Highway 14. I feel like a freaking hobo.

7/18 I hiked the blacktop 8.5 miles to Hwy 40 to hitch to Steamboat. I hate hitching, it also makes me feel like a bum. I waited an hour until a really nice woman, 24, picked me up on her way to see a friend about a job with a SUP company in Steamboat. Thank you! I had happy hour beer and tapas with Dassie, AJ and Burning Calves who rolled into town an hour or two after me.

Winter Park to Grand Lake

July 13, 2017July 13, 2017 Catwater CDT 2017 Catwater, CDT 2017, Continental Divide Trail

James Peak, I asked a day hiker to take the photo because one of my kids says I suck at selfies. True that.

I had to come up with a plan to save my mind. I want to hike through passes, not 3000′ up to the tippy top of a peak and down, steep down, to the bottom of the crotch between peaks. Passes not peaks! Kinda out of luck on that issue. My slow pace both up and down meant for low mileage days, self doubt and it-is-what-it-is anger.

So I took a hard look at the elevation profile for the next stretch and made a plan. Less planned miles on some days, more on others. It worked!

7/9 I hiked up whatever peak it is north of Berthoud Pass parking lot and down the equally steep other side loaded with snow patches, talus and bugs, then up a traverse that wound around a hillside, then down a nicely engineered and constructed set of steep switchbacks (47 of them?) to a dirt road teaming with ATVs, trucks driven by unsmiling men, and boys cautiously riding dirt bikes. There was a campground of sorts, which a hiker somewhere ahead of me had noted in the comments for Guthook’s app for this area. The first site, near the road, was a little creepy.

Ghost stories, anyone? Seats blown out, camp chairs next to an overflowing fire ring.

Nobody was camped anywhere but I walked back through the trees until I was out of sight from the road. A perfect quiet spot in the rain. Tomorrow James Peak first thing.

7/10 I was hiking early in longies and jacket. Took about 4 hours to make it to the top. I was passed by 2 thrus, 3 day hikers,then another pair of day hikers. At the top there is of course a giant switchback going down. I slipped and fell twice on the loose gravel and rock, taking a little chunk out of my hand and dripping blood on my hiking stick. The trail continued with a traverse through scree on the side of a ridge then came to a trail junction, with a perfectly good trail leading away to a road. I knew I should have taken it. Next time I will check my other maps and not go blindly where the Guthook/Bear Creek tells me. The “untrail” official CDT went along a ridge, cairn to cairn, on tussocks and talus. Who decides on the “official” route? A committee? An agency? The CDTC? Why would you send hikers on unspoiled tundra when an existing trammeled trail is nearby? After awhile I did check my other maps and bushwhacked down to a road below, CR 80. I yelled to my wildlife buddies as I went, telling the sheep, moose, elk, bear and all the other animals I could think of how much I appreciated them not popping out of the brush and surprising me. The road walk uphill was great and apparently normal because the jeeps didn’t stop to ask if I was lost or OK. I rejoined the CDT at 3:30 with 3 short climbs and traverses in the alpine wind and cold and bits of rain until finally a steep down to trees and water. I was less worried today being exposed at 12,000′ 3:30-6:00 pm–the grumbling of thunder and the cloud mass was mostly behind me.

Some days your mind just goes into a loop trying to resolve unresolvable issues. When you create an official route on ground that doesn’t have any kind of previous impact–not a game trail, not a social trail–not only are you encouraging environmental impacts, you are putting hikers at greater risk for injury which would potentially require Search and Rescue (SAR) response. Who makes these decisions? Another issue that bugs me: Wilderness economics. There is so little money for wilderness restoration, trail construction and trail maintenance. But when trail conditions are crummy, the odds of hiker injury and rescue goes up. SAR is a different pot of money, also underfunded, than wilderness management. Yes, we are in the wilderness at our own risk, but where there is trail, there is responsibility, both for trail maintenance, environmental protection and human safety. And it all goes together but it’s all separated by jurisdictions and funding. I do my best to leave no trace and to diminish personal risk, but still, bad stuff happens to good people all the time. And we need more people doing stuff outside and in the wilderness partly because healthy and happy people are cheaper. Oh shut up Catwater, just hike.

7/11 It was a lovely campsite. It rained hard 6:30-9:30, then off and on all night. When I crawled out of my tent in the morning, I was greeted by a moose grazing in the lush grass across a meadow. Today was gray but I was happy to be going downhill or level most of the day, caught in the green tunnel and listening to the interminable American Gods. I saw a second moose and about 4 miles in, thanks to a heads up by a day hiker, a herd of 10-20 elk.

Then I startled a beautiful deer, palomino colored tail showing off her darker self and huge mule ears. She sproinged off through the trees and meadow. No intense climbs today and as I’ve learned to appreciate road walks, so too do I appreciate plodding through the murky trees, not the windy alpine. I made my 20 miles, the first in a long time, although finding a tent site was a miracle. The trail along the lakes has very few flat spots, what few there are have wads of deadfall and rocks. But I made do. I’m camped on a rock I’ve padded with my jacket and the rain is pouring down. Just a few hours to Grand Lake. What crazy slow stuff will the trail throw at me tomorrow?

7/12 Rain. Rained all night. Rained lightly all morning. But I’m at such low elevation that I wasn’t cold. The trail is overgrown so I wore my rain pants till I hit civilization hours into the day. The trail wasn’t so bad today, wet but NO wind, NO cold, NO elevation, AND I was going to be indoors for the night. I stopped by the post office and picked up my box. New shoes! New insoles! Laundromat, groceries, fuel tomorrow. I really should just drive town to town and forget about this hiking thing.