6/26-30/23 58 miles

So am I done with Tennessee?

David picked me up at 11:30 as he had to give another guy a ride to Cherokee, past Newfound Gap where he’d return me to the trail. Whoops. As we enter Great Smoky National Park, a road crew with an NPS person blocked the road. After crawling behind an enormous line of traffic, we learned there was a rockfall caused by yesterday’s storm blocking the road. So instead of a 30” drive, David drove us around the long way, 3 hours. We dropped the other passenger and headed into the Park. Whoops. Blocked. I finally saw on Google Maps that there were 2 closed sections but that the road in between was open. I hopped out with David and asked the NPS if there was a blockage between here and Newfound Gap. No. Was he letting any cars through since we were only going to the gigantic Newfound Gap parking lot. Yes, some hikers needed to be picked up and their driver was allowed through. I said I needed to be dropped off and David was a shuttle driver (his car has his business name and info on both sides). So we got permission as long as David promised to come back the same way and not try to get through the Park. Thank you! I finally started hiking at 2:30 pm with the Smoky NP dilemma. Since NPS requires hikers to stay at shelters, I can camp at 5:30 or 8:30. I have food for 3 nights anyway so no problem. I went to the near shelter. And there were 2 sisters there already, yay! More humans to run off bear. Then a hiker I met at Standing Bear Hostel who hiked out the day before me, in the rain, No. 2. Not that number 2, but because he always came in second playing games with other hikers. Super cool guy, very sociable on the trail, and hiking Damascus to Springer like me, although on a dirt bag budget, not platinum blazing budget like me.

The next day, I went up “the iconic” Clingman’s Dome, which was covered in clouds and tourists who drove up the now-opened Park road and walked a short paved pathway. A couple asked me what I was doing with the big pack and were so impressed with the combination of me being solo, old and fit, they took my picture. Yup, celebrity OG hiker woman once again. Pretty fun! I got to a shelter and eventually there were 5 women and No. 2. He builds a fire in the shelter fireplace to dry out his wet stuff, then pitches his tent.

Another short day because of the shelter staggering, but it’s my last night in the Park so afterwards I should have a little more flexibility in the miles I hike. Or….more slackpacking. I saw 4 wild hogs streak across the trail ahead of me. Snake Bite, from Mobile, Alabama, at Standing Bear Hostel had told me to look for torn up ground where the hogs rooted, so I’d been noticing that.

And down through the lush rainforest, across the Fontana Dam and the trail popped out by the Fontana Marina where I could get a shuttle the 2 paved miles to Fontana Lodge. I called at 2:40 and they said a shuttle would get me at 5. I was kinda rude since when I’d called for a lodging reservation a few days ago, I was told to “just call” when I got there and they’d send somebody. I was walking up to the parking area from the marina when Susan who was just packing up her stand up paddleboard (SUP) offered me a ride to the Lodge.Yes! I walked in and apologized for being grumpy on the phone and of course was compelled to suggest they be more clear when a hiker makes a reservation and asks about a ride. I’m off season from the NOBO hordes so probably the only hiker recently. Anyway, after 3 whole nights in a row of sleeping on the ground, I’m in a lovely, clean, quiet room washing off the accumulated sweat and grime from hiking in the heat and humidity. Quit your bitching, Catwater, you have beer. Plus Dan mailed my resupply box 6/27 and it’s already here at the Lodge on 6/29! Go USPS, right Tarcey?

The following morning I got a ride south about 14 miles to Stecoah Gap and slackpacked back to a Smashburger with jalapeños. I started hiking about 8:30 and it rained for 4 solid hours, then not. My rain gear kept me warm. When the rain stopped I put my fleece on instead, put in an earbud and continued listening to Fossil Men, The Quest For The Oldest Skeleton and the Origins of Humankind by Kermit Pattison. It’s fascinating and memorable, a true tale of the personalities, fossils and evolution of the science of paleo anthropology. We are an amazing creature. But wait, there’s more, let’s see what we become in another million years.

Then back to the Lodge to dry out and refuel for tomorrow.